The pressure gage is one of the service person’s most valuable tool. Thus, the quality of the work depends on the accuracy of the gages used. Most are precision-made instruments that will give many years of dependable service if properly treated.

The test gage set should be used primarily to check pressures at the low and high side of the compressor. The ammonia gage should be used with a steel Bourdon tube tip and socket to prevent damage.

Once you become familiar with the construction of your gages, you will be able to handle them more efficiently.  Drawn brass is usually used for case material. It does not corrode.

However, some gages now use high-impact plastics. A copper alloy Bourdon tube with a brass tip and socket is used for most refrigerants. Stainless steel is used for ammonia. Engineers have found that moving parts involved in rolling contact will last longer if made of unlike metals.

That is why many top-grade refrigeration gages have bronze-bushed movements with a stainless steel pinion and arbor. The socket is the only support for the entire gage. It extends beyond the case.

The extension is long enough to provide a wrench flat enough for use in attaching the gage to the pressure source. Never twist the case when threading the gage into the outlet. This could cause misalignment or permanent damage to the mechanism.

NOTE: Keep gages and thermometers separate from other tools in your service kit. They can be knocked out of alignment by a jolt from a heavy tool.

Most pressure gages for refrigeration testing have a small orifice restriction screw. The screw is placed in the pressure inlet hole of the socket. It reduces the effects of pulsations without throwing off pressure readings. If the orifice becomes clogged, the screw can be easily removed for cleaning.

Gage recalibration
Most gages retain a good degree of accuracy in spite of daily usage and constant handling. Since they are precision instruments, however, you should set up a regular program for checking them. If you have a regular program, you can be sure that you are working with accurate instruments.

Gages will develop reading errors if they are dropped or subjected to excessive pulsation, vibration, or a violent surge of overpressure. You can restore a gage to accuracy by adjusting the recalibration screw (see figure below).

If the gage does not have a recalibration screw, remove the ring and glass. Connect the gage you are testing and a gage of known accuracy to the same pressure source. Compare readings at mid-scale.

If the gage under test is not reading the same as the test gage, remove the pointer and reset.

This type of adjustments on the pointer acts merely as a pointer setting device. It does not reestablish the original even increment (linearity) of pointer travel. This becomes more apparent as the correction requirement becomes greater.

If your gage has a recalibrator screw on the face of the dial as in figure, remove the ring and glass. Relieve all pressure to the gage. Turn the recalibration screw until the pointer rests at zero.

The gage will be as accurate as when it left the factory if it has a screw recalibration adjustment. Resetting the dial to zero restores accuracy throughout the entire range of dial readings. If you cannot calibrate the gage by either of these methods, take it to a qualified specialist for repair.

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Go Lagu said...

When I originally commented I clicked the -Notify me when new comments are added- checkbox and from now on each time a comment is added I get four emails sticking with the same comment. Will there be by any means you’ll be able to get rid of me from that service? Thanks!

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